Vintage 101. Mastering the Art of Dating Old School Fashion

If vintage fashion has taken you captive like it has me, chances are you’ve spent hours sifting through thrift shop racks or boutique treasures, asking yourself, “What decade does this stunning piece belong to?”

The excitement (…and dare I say addiction) of discovering and owning a garment with a past is half the fun, but figuring out which fashion era it hails from can sometimes feel like a puzzle even Carrie Bradshaw would appreciate cracking.

… Every Garment Tells a Story

So here is today’s key learning. Vintage fashion isn’t all about the clothes themselves—it’s effectively a wearable piece of history.

Each era brings its own vibe, shaped by cultural shifts, artistic revolutions, and technological leaps. By learning to spot these trends, you’re not only rocking a sustainable, totally unique wardrobe but also keeping a slice of fashion’s rich history alive. Cool, right?

Over the years, I’ve discovered some super handy tips for dating specialty garments, and I’m so excited to share them with you. A lot of my treasures come from sourcing vintage pieces online, through estates or through consignment, which often involves chatting with sellers to uncover the unique stories behind the clothes. Bonus points of course if they have stories to share about previous owners—I live for those moments!

However, there are times (many!) where these stories are simply not available and have me daydreaming about when, where, what and how this piece came to find me.

To make things simple, I thought I’d break it down decade by decade. Think of it as your go-to cheat sheet for pinning down the era your vintage finds belong to. Hopefully it can also help with partnering some iconic garment trends/ features so that if you're hunting down a ‘40s wrap dress or drooling over a mod mini from the ‘60s, you’ll know exactly what to look for by using some of these key words to help your hunting.

So here it is, your Magazine St. Vintage road map to dating vintage fashion!

How to Identify Vintage Styles

Every fashion era comes with its iconic hallmarks, from silhouettes to fabrics to accessories. While some styles evolve gradually across decades (hello, flared pants), others are specific to their time (think ‘80s acid wash or ‘40s shoulder pads). Keep in mind, however, that fashion often repeats itself—remember, "1990s does the 1970s" is a thing, too.

1930s Trends: Elegance on a Budget

The Great Depression shaped the fashion landscape of the ‘30s, and simplicity reigned supreme. This was when sleeves, modest hemlines, and tailored waistlines made their mark. Think handmade clothes with natural motifs and subtle colors.

Key Features of 1930s Fashion:

  • Bias-Cut Gowns: Made famous by Madeleine Vionnet, these dresses draped beautifully with liquid satins and silks.

  • Shoulder Drama: Think butterfly sleeves, banjo sleeves, and oversized shoulder pads. Iconic.

  • Man-Made Fibers: Rayon for dresses, viscose for lingerie, and the rise of nylon stockings.

  • Zippers: The MVP of closures—zippers went mainstream.

  • Suntans: A golden glow (aka sunburns) became a trendy fashion statement.

  • Trained Skirts: Bias edge meets straight grain—sway skirts stole the show.

  • House Dresses: Practical, colourful, and often homemade for stay-at-home glam.

  • Day Dresses: Tailored and elegant, made from silk or rayon crepe—perfect for stepping out.

  • Evening Gowns: Bias-cut, floor-length, and curve-hugging perfection.

  • Berets & Tilt Hats: The ultimate accessories for 1930s outfits.

Pro Vintage Tip: If it’s handmade and has a practical-but-pretty vibe, chances are it’s a '30s find.

1940s Trends: Wartime Utility Meets Post-War Chic

World War II brought bold and practical changes to fashion. Shorter hemlines, shoulder pads, and military-inspired pieces defined the early ‘40s, while prosperity in the late years introduced brighter colors and delicate touches.

Key Features of 1940s Fashion:

  • Lace, silk tassels, fringe & beading made a big comeback.

  • Short fitted jackets or shoulder capes paired with blouses & sweaters.

  • Must-have accessories? Wrist-length gloves & hats (fedora, pillbox, or bicorne).

  • Dresses made a strong return post-war, though pants stayed popular.

  • Day hemlines: below the knee to mid-calf; evening dresses? Knee to ankle length.

  • Paris fashion houses reopened, bringing in natural & asymmetrical silhouettes.

  • Higher-end fabrics like lace & embroidery ruled as material restrictions ended.

  • Shoulder pads for a bold silhouette

  • Military-inspired colors (olive, navy, khaki)

  • Wide-leg pants à la Katharine Hepburn

  • Peplums & two-piece suits

  • Plastic zippers? Not yet — fabrics were natural only

Pro Vintage Tip: Struggling to tell whether something is ‘40s versus ‘80s? Check the tags and materials—1940s fashion used natural fabrics like wool or rayon, while the '80s embraced synthetics.

1950s Trends: Hollywood Glamour and Dior's "New Look"

Post-war prosperity sparked a fashion explosion in the ‘50s. Christian Dior’s "New Look" introduced cinched waists and wide skirts, while Hollywood icons made pastels, pearls, and poodles a wardrobe staple.

Key Features of 1950s Fashion:

  • Hourglass Shapes: Cinched waists paired with full skirts or pencil skirts.

  • Christian Dior’s New Look (1947): Rounded shoulders, tiny waists, exaggerated hips, and flowing skirts. West Germany loved Dior-inspired looks!

  • Pencil Dresses: Sleek, figure-hugging styles from bodice to mid-calf; something commonly embraced in Australian vintage fashion.

  • Experimental styles like sack dresses, A-line dresses, and bell-shaped skirts.

  • Practical playsuits, pants, and sportswear designed for active lifestyles. Audrey Hepburn popularised slim pants with chic boat-neck tops and flats.

  • Shoes for every occasion! Pumps, stilettos, flats, wedges, moccasins, and more—available in bold prints and colors.

  • Hats galore! Think pillboxes, fascinators, Juliette caps, and wide straw hats.

  • Accessories completed the look—gloves, pearl necklaces, colorful scarves, and boxy handbags were the ultimate finishing touches.

Pro Vintage Tip: If it screams Grace Kelly or Marilyn Monroe, it’s got major ‘50s vibes.

1960s Trends: A Style Revolution

The ‘60s shook fashion to its core with the rise of mod and hippie cultures. Hemlines skyrocketed, colors became bolder, and accessories went plastic-fantastic.

Key Features of 1960s Fashion:

  • Mini Skirts & Culottes: Mary Quant made the mini skirt iconic, and short hemlines ruled the streets.

  • Go-Go Boots & Square-Toe Shoes: Funky footwear that defined the decade.

  • Curved PVC Dresses: Experimental, shiny, and futuristic fashion moments.

  • Bright Colors & Graphic Florals: Saturated hues and bold prints stole the spotlight.

  • Knee Socks & Pleated Skirts: The ultimate preppy combo.

  • Plastic Jewelry: Oversized, colorful, and oh-so-fun accessories.

  • Neckerchiefs & Headbands: Hair game on point, always.

  • The Pillbox Hat: A Jackie Kennedy classic turned style staple.

1970s Trends: Free Spirit Chic

The ‘70s had it all—boho romance, Victorian-inspired blouses, and relaxed yet glamorous disco fever. Earth tones and cozy fabrics like suede and crochet pulled the looks together.

Iconic Features of 1970s Fashion:

  • Hippie vibes continue: The ‘70s kicked off with a strong nod to the free-spirited ‘60s 🌼.

  • Color & pattern explosion: Tie-dye, psychedelic prints, and earthy tones (looking at you, orange & mustard).

  • Boho chic: Peasant blouses, Hungarian folk embroidery, and Mexican-inspired "peasant" tops.

  • Statement silhouettes: Bell-bottom pants & bell sleeves (iconic and unapologetic).

  • Outerwear with a twist: Ponchos, capes, and recycled military surplus pieces.

  • Rock the textures: Leather, suede, crushed velvet, and crochet ruled supreme.

  • Accessories that slay: Platform shoes and oversized sunglasses stole the spotlight.

Pro Vintage Tip: The '70s combined boldness with effortless cool. If it's giving boho-glam vibes, it’s probably peak ‘70s.

1980s Trends: Bigger, Bolder, Better

The 1980s were all about extra—think exaggerated shapes, vibrant prints, and bold accessories. While some may shy away from the loud looks, the '80s hold some serious sartorial gems. Pair an iconic ruffle skirt or velvet blazer with Nike kicks or Converse Chucks, and you've got street style gold.

Iconic Features of 1970s Fashion:

  • Shoulder Pads – Bigger is better. Add some structure to your silhouette.

  • Acid-Wash Jeans & Graphic Prints – High-waisted, boyfriend, or curve cuts—your '80s denim dreams!

  • Oversized Tops & Power Blazers – A nod to YSL and Hailey Bieber’s chic modern take.

  • Tapered Pants & Point-Toe Shoes – Sleek and sharp from day to night.

  • Chunky, Bold Jewelry – Bright earrings? Perfect as clip-on brooches or playful hairpins!

  • Signature pieces—biker shorts, bold-shouldered blazers, and taffeta— still to this day, are everywhere!

Pro Vintage Tip: If it combines drama with synthetic fabrics, you’re channeling ‘80s energy.

1990s Trends: The Minimalist's Dream

The ‘90s toned things down with a focus on subdued palettes, grunge-inspired layering, and sleek silhouettes. From slip dresses to flannels, the decade had a little something for everyone.

Key Features of 1990s Fashion:

  • The 1990s embraced casual dressing and minimalism—formal styles took a backseat. The end of the '80s marked the shift to relaxed, understated fashion.

  • The decade favored laid-back looks over glitzy eighties glamour.

  • Flannels and overalls (grunge vibes, anyone?)

  • Slip dresses - satin, silk, floral… still a piece that is highly valued within the modern day thrift market.

  • Chunky shoes like Doc Martens and platform loafers

  • Midi skirts with subtle floral prints

  • Cropped tops and fitted vests

Pro Vintage Tip: Any garment that looks like it belongs on Rachel Green from Friends is likely a ‘90s masterpiece.

Decoding the era of a vintage piece might take some practice, but it’s a skill worth mastering. Once you get the hang of it, it becomes so much easier to style it with the perfect touch of street-chic or a dash of evening glam. Feeling a bit unsure? Don’t worry—vintage fashion is more of an art than a science. The real fun lies in experimenting, playing around, and building a wardrobe that’s uniquely timeless.

Whether you’re chasing those one-of-a-kind vintage gems or simply indulging in your love for fashion history, vintage clothing offers a tangible, stylish connection to the past that’s impossible to replicate.

After all, that’s a key driver of this vintage game right? To discover and confidently create a look that is like no one else!

L x

Next
Next

Unboxing My Obsession with Vintage Clothing